Shower Stall

Apart from improving the looks of your bathroom, constructing a ceramic tile shower has many other advantages. Ceramic is a very good looking material and available in many designs. It’s a highly durable material that resists scratches and needs little maintenance or care. Should you be considering installation of a ceramic tile shower, you should carefully choose appropriate tiles. For a shower it is good to be using ceramic or mosaic tiles with glazing. Estimate the number of tiles required for the purpose from the plan of your house. And, do add a margin of ten percent to cover the likely wastage. Initially, it may appear to be a simple job that can be accomplished within a few days, but needs a lot of accurate work and detailed planning and may take longer than your expectations.

Important notes:

* Shower installation should be undertaken at the beginning of the renovation work.

* New water supply lines should first be assembled as per the instructions of the manufacturer. The parts of pipes coming out of the wall should be in place and ready for being connected at the desired time. Water supply must be switched off. Simultaneously, you can sound proof the stall by using insulations amid the studs.

* Ensure to locate the drain at a level higher than the base of the shower stall.

1. Make the water-repellent structure

1.1
Using a knife with carbide tip and a T-square cut off the fiberglass mesh on one side of the panel and snap it up like normal drywall, thus making openings for different pipes. The rough side should be installed to face the inside of the shower. You may use any gypsum or fiber cement board but make sure to make accurate measurements.

1.2
Fix the boards to the framework with the help of 1 ½” galvanized roofing nails or treated wood screws.

1.3
Cover the joints with a reinforcing nylon or fiberglass tape. Follow it up by spreading polymer glue on the joints, mainly in corners and junctions. Let it remain undisturbed for 24 to 48 hours to facilitate hardening.

2. Install the shower stall base

2.1
Keep the shower stall base on the floor to guarantee that the latter is equal and in level. Ascertain that the drain opening matches well with the location of the waste pipe. Take out the base.

2.2
Assemble watertight parts of the drain, which finally connects, to the plumbing system. Keep the base back to its place.

2.3
Using liquid soap coat the rubber ring, which seals the connection to the drain. Then, slide the ring in its place.

2.4
Fix the base to the wall studs as per the manufacturer’s instructions.

2.5
Cover the drain with a sponge to prevent its getting blocked due residual dust.

3. Lay the wall tiles

3.1
Measure and mark the position where the tile wall will end. The frame of the shower stall supporting the glass door should directly be attached to the wall, outside the tiles.

3.2
Now, start laying the tiles from the bottom and at the junction of both walls. For keeping them straight trace guidelines with a chalk line and continue following the same.

3.3
Tiles around the pipes wherever the plumbing “exits” from the wall should be cut. After the adhesive becomes dry, fill the gaps between the tiles and the pipe with silicone to prevent water penetration.

3.4
After the adhesive becomes dry remove the spacers. Using a rubber float apply grout taking care to thoroughly seal the joints.

3.5
Take away surplus grout using a sponge or damp rag.

4. Install the faucets and shower stall frame

4.1
Put in the faucets (shower spout, water supply lever).

4.2
Screw the shower stall frame that finally supports the glass panels straight in to the wall outside the tiles.

4.3
Wipe off all the surfaces using a dry cloth after finishing the work.

4.4
Take out the sponge from the drain and tightly screw the drain strainer in its place.

4.5
End with applying a silicone joint on the border of the faucets and shower stall, as also at the wall and frame junction and at other places suggested by the manufacturer.

4.6
For installing accessories, faucets and supports for the shower you may first attach a masking tape on the wall at the desired position to point out your markings and avoid cracking of ceramic. Drill the holes and fix accessories in the end.

The advantages of having a shower stall with ceramic include: a very wide choice, very durable solid material, easy maintenance and the attractive looks, unique to ceramics. Do take help of your dealer for comparing quality, prices and styles. Any good dealer will be happy to offer required help.

You get faucets in a very large range of designs, styles and materials. You may have them in traditional, modern or decorative designs. However the purpose remains the same and that is to customize your shower corner.

You’ll need to decide a couple of features before you go out buying one. Have a look at these: a showerhead that helps saving water, a flow that looks like rain, one with a pressure regulator or the one offering to massage you? Also, consider the finish that will go well with your bathroom. Though chrome is the most popular, you may have one with brass, copper, oil rubbed bronze or nickel finish. It takes about two hours to install a shower faucet and you can enjoy it for years to come.

Here are the steps of installation:

1. Preparing for installation
2. Installing the valve

3. Fixing the decorative plate and the faucet handle
4. Installing the showerhead

5. Installation of spout
6. Finishing the installation

Specifications

There are two ways for connecting shower pipes. The traditional way is to employ copper pipes that are quite dependable but need to be welded. The other option is to use PEX plastic pipes. These are getting popular as they offer easy installation, but the limitation is that these offer water at a slightly reduced pressure as the metallic rims are housed inside pipes and that slightly reduces the diameter.

Useful Tip

It helps to include a trap door in one of the walls for adjustments and repairs needed at a future date.

1. Preparing for installation

1.1
Turn off the supply of water to the shower. Now decide where you like to install the showerhead and faucet (also the spout for the bathtub if desired). Mark the position of the holes with a lead pencil. Here are the height standards to be observed:

* Faucet height: 45 to 48 inches
* Height of showerhead: 72 to 78 inches
* Spout height: 24 to 28 inches

1.2
Using a hole saw make holes in the shower stall.

2. Install the valve

2.1
Arrange the valve in such a manner that the “UP” indication is facing upward.

2.2
Directly connect supply pipes for cold and hot water to either side of the valve. You may directly weld onto the valve, but the use of ½” FPT × ½”welded adapters is highly recommended. If you decide to weld, see that the valve doesn’t get overheated and gets damaged in the process.

The other option is to use ½” FPT × ½” PEX adapters that require no welding.

2.3
Firmly hold the valve inside the wall. To ensure its perfect hold, screw it down to a horizontal 2 × 4” part. In the absence of any such part install one.

2.4
Join the riser tube and the spout pipe with the help of ½” FPT × ½” welded adapters. In case the valve is for a shower installation only, use a ½” brass cap to block the outlet not to be used.

You may opt to use ½” × ½” PEX adapters.

2.5
Set the shower stall in its place.

3. Set up the decorative plate and the faucet handle

Take out the protecting template connected to the valve. Then slide the decorative plate onto the valve. Match the plate hole(s) with the front holes of the valve and then screw. Now you need to install the handle. Attach the handle adapter to the cartridge with a screw and using a hexagonal Allen key, fit the handle. Make sure that the lever is pointing in the downward direction with faucet closed.

4. Install the showerhead

Showerhead may be fixed or removable (telephone shower) and connected to stems for adjusting to the height of the user. You may choose the model of your choice. You can adjust the water flow from gentle to strong to pulsating by using variable flow showerheads.

4.1
Connect the top outlet to the to the pipe of the showerhead, after covering the filets with Teflon tape and then attach the drop ear elbow to the horizontal 2 × 4” part. Warning: just before making the connections you should glide the flange to the end of the shower pipe on the wall side. That helps avoiding damage to the chrome pipe.

4.2
Enfold the pipe filets of the showerhead with two to three layers of Teflon tape applied in clockwise direction. Screw the showerhead manually without making it too tight. An adjustable wrench is used to finish tightening with just a ¼ turn.

If your set comes with a flexible connector now is the time to install it.

Note: The accompanying snap doesn’t show the wall, enabling you to see the components at the back of the wall.

5. Install the spout

Spouts may be slid or screwed onto a pipe. In any case, ensure that there are no defects in the copper pipe. The cut end of the pipe must be flawless. The rim too must be smooth, and not sharp.

5.1
Sliding spout:
Twist the spout on the copper pipe in such a way that setscrew faces upward. Using a hexagonal Allen key, make the screw fairly tight. Now, turn the spout to its standard position while ensuring that it’s well installed against the wall of the shower stall. Tighten the screw with help of a hexagonal Allen key.

Use ½” PEX × ½” copper elbow for a PEX pipe connection.

5.2
Screwed spout:
Cover the sleeve filets with Teflon tape and screw the spout to the sleeve.

6. Finish the installation

Turn on the cold water and hot water to inspect the connections and check there’s no leakage. Leave the faucet open for one minute at least in “lukewarm” position to release the air trapped in the pipes.

Congratulations you did it! Your shower looks great with a new faucet. Are you aware that having a shower for four minutes consumes 60 to 80 liters of water? On the other hand, a bath consumes 150 to 200 liters. On second thoughts you may like to replace washbasin faucet also to have a uniform look in the bathroom.

Here are the steps you’ll need to follow for installing a bathtub in a bathroom that already has the basic plumbing.

The installation of a bathtub is a typical job and is recommended for being carried by an experiences DIY homeowner. In any case if you decide to undertake the job as a DIY project make sure to have a helping hand as bathtubs are quite heavy and not easy to move around by one person. As you can perhaps understand that a bathtub full of water causes additional thrust on the floor. So, you must ensure that the present floor will be able to bear that extra strain. It will be good to consult a builder or another professional and seek a confirmation to that effect.

The new bathtub that you buy comes covered with a thin coating of a protective film that should be removed only after you have completed the installation.

If you plan to have a whirlpool bath or some similar bath that required electric current, make sure to include one GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) type wall outlet that automatically switches off the supply in just 1/40 of a second should any problem arise.

Plan in such a manner that all plumbing remains easily accessible to prevent opening of walls in case of any problems at a later date.

1. Prepare the site

Switch off the water supply. Making use of wood shims, level the bathtub.

2. Install the supports

Keeping the bathtub away from the walls nail 1’X4” wood strapping on the three walls, just below the already made marks, ensuring to cut the supports to house pipes that might come in the way.

3. Install the drain and overflow pipes

Put together overflow and drain pipes as per the instructions of the manufacturer. Connect the pipes to proper openings on the bathtub. You can procure these fittings from any renovation center.

4. Fix the bathtub to the wall

Place the bathtub to its place and using galvanized nails fix the same to the wall studs through the holes provided in the nailing flange. If no holes are provided, push the nails through the studs just over the flange so that the head of the nails overlaps the flange.

Some bathtub manufacturers also provide installation clips.

5. Install the strainer

Apply putty to lower edge of the strainer and let it go down its opening. Firmly screw to the tailpiece of drainpipe and make it tighter.

6. Install the overflow

Put in the drain pop-up mechanism in the opening of the overflow pipe. Fix the cap and using long screws screw it to the mounting of the overflow pipe.

Connect the tailpiece of drainpipe to the P-trap. You may be required to cut off part of the pipe for connecting the two. This can be accomplished using a pipe cutter or hacksaw.

7. Finish the wall and test

After the walls are finished fix the faucets. Switch on the water supply and flush out any filth that might have accumulated in the pipes during the process of installation.

Other than improving the looks of your bathroom, constructing a ceramic tile shower has many other advantages. Ceramic is a very nice-looking material and available in many designs. It’s a highly durable material that resists scratches and needs slight maintenance or care. If considering the installation of a ceramic tile shower, you should cautiously choose appropriate tiles. For a shower it is good to be using ceramic or mosaic tiles with glazing. Estimate the number of tiles required for the purpose from the plan of your house. And, do add a margin of ten percent to cover wastage, which can’t be avoided altogether. Initially, it may appear to be a simple job that can be accomplished within a few days, but needs a lot of accurate work and patience with detailed planning and may take longer than your expectations if you are looking forward to a lasting installation.

1. Framework and plumbing

Before getting started with the installation you need to prepare the walls and take care of the plumbing requirements of the shower. Simultaneously, you can provide insulation between the studs for the purpose of soundproofing. For fixing of water resistant concrete paneling to frames you’ll need sufficient quantity of studs and a quality-nailing strip. You may also need some furring strips to have enough nailing surface.

Measure the walls and mark position of all the openings required for plumbing. Copy these measurements on concrete panels.

2. Install the concrete panels

With the help of a knife having carbide tip and a T-square cut off the fiberglass mesh on one side of the panel and snap it up like usual drywall, thus making openings for different pipes. The rough side should be installed to face the inside of the shower. Use aluminum or galvanized roofing nails for attaching the panels to the framing. Seal the joints using fiberglass mesh tape and provide a liberal coating of polymer glue, especially at the corners and joints.

3. Pour cement on the floor

Cover the drain with a sponge to prevent its getting blocked due residual dusts.

From the drain, using a level put a mark on the walls around the shower, measuring ¼ inch for every foot between the drain and the walls. Next, draw one more line using a red marker; about 1 inch above the first mark to ensure that the difference between that mark and the level of the cement remains uniform. Using these marks, draw leveled lines on all sides the walls on the inside of the shower. Screen the cement with a slight tilt in the direction of the drain. As it dries up, smoothen the surface using a block of concrete and do away with the dust.

4. Install the membrane on the floor

Take away the sponge from the drain. Using roller or a paintbrush applies primer on the floor/wall angles up to a height of six inches (15 cm). Allow the primer to get dried. Depending upon the room temperature and the thickness of applied primer it may take four to twenty-four hours for drying. Stick multipurpose waterproofing tape all along the length of the floor/wall joints, 3 inches on the floor and the wall. To ensure that the joints between the pieces of sanded membrane remain watertight, you need to assess the position of the joints of the membrane, taking it to be one meter wide, and fix tape on the joints, keeping a gap of three inches on either side.

4.1
Cut the sanded membrane and position the same, starting from the periphery of the wall.
Find out the size of the opening of the drain and secure the membrane while removing the protection sheet. Apply a bit of pressure on the membrane using a rubber roller to get better adhesion. Stick every strip of membrane next to each other on the multipurpose waterproofing tape joints that are already in position and cover the complete floor, sticking the membrane with plastic cement, about half an inch inside the drain. Take a strip of membrane about six inches wide and fix it at the border of the wall at its bottom. Apply sealer to have a watertight seal.

If you are unable top procure sanded membrane you may use 20mil PVC that generally comes in rolls of four or five feet.

5. Install ceramic on the floor

Cover the ceramic with a sealer, once before the installation and thrice after grouting. Measure the size of the drain and accordingly cut the ceramic to have an opening. Cover the drain with a tile and spread the tiles all over the floor to know how the tiles would fit, cutting those wherever required. Take out the central tile, cover it with adhesive and put back the same to its position. Carry on in the same way with the rest of the tiles and keep inserting spacers between the tiles. Allow the adhesive to set. Tightly close all the joints by applying grout with the help of a rubber float. Remove excess of grout with a sponge or a moist piece of cloth. Let it dry for at lease 24 hours and then apply grout sealer on all the joints.

6. Install ceramic on the walls

With a tile cutter cut sufficient number of tiles to cover the walls and shower edge. Using a notched trowel cover the ceramic and concrete panel with adhesive. Starting from the bottom of the wall start laying ceramic while keeping to move away from the outside towards the inner side of shower, Take one wall at a time and keep using spacers between the tiles. Remove the spacers after the adhesive gets dry. Using a rubber float apply grout, taking care to thoroughly seal all the joints. Use a sponge or moist rag to get rid of excess grout. Seal all the joints using grout sealer after the grout gets dry.

7. Install the doorsill

Attach the shower sill to the edge of the shower. Apply more adhesive on the outside, making the sill to incline slightly towards the inside of the shower, thus directing the water flow towards the drain. Let it dry and firmly seal the joints using bathroom silicone.

8. Finishing

Wipe off all the surfaces using a dry cloth after finishing the work. Take out the sponge from the drain and tightly screw the drain strainer in its place. Finally apply a silicone joint on the border of the faucets and shower stall, and also at the wall and frame junction and at other places. For installing accessories, faucets and supports for the shower it helps to first attach a masking tape on the wall at the desired position to point out your markings and avoid cracking of ceramic. Drill the holes and fix accessories at the end.

There are many benefits of having a shower stall with ceramic. Some of these are: a wide range of options, very durable solid material that’s easy to maintain and the attractive looks that only ceramics have. Feel free to ask for help from your dealer for comparing quality, prices and styles. Any good dealer should be happy to extend such help.