Shower Stall

You get faucets in a very large range of designs, styles and materials. You may have them in traditional, modern or decorative designs. However the purpose remains the same and that is to customize your shower corner.

You’ll need to decide a couple of features before you go out buying one. Have a look at these: a showerhead that helps saving water, a flow that looks like rain, one with a pressure regulator or the one offering to massage you? Also, consider the finish that will go well with your bathroom. Though chrome is the most popular, you may have one with brass, copper, oil rubbed bronze or nickel finish. It takes about two hours to install a shower faucet and you can enjoy it for years to come.

Here are the steps of installation:

1. Preparing for installation
2. Installing the valve

3. Fixing the decorative plate and the faucet handle
4. Installing the showerhead

5. Installation of spout
6. Finishing the installation

Specifications

There are two ways for connecting shower pipes. The traditional way is to employ copper pipes that are quite dependable but need to be welded. The other option is to use PEX plastic pipes. These are getting popular as they offer easy installation, but the limitation is that these offer water at a slightly reduced pressure as the metallic rims are housed inside pipes and that slightly reduces the diameter.

Useful Tip

It helps to include a trap door in one of the walls for adjustments and repairs needed at a future date.

1. Preparing for installation

1.1
Turn off the supply of water to the shower. Now decide where you like to install the showerhead and faucet (also the spout for the bathtub if desired). Mark the position of the holes with a lead pencil. Here are the height standards to be observed:

* Faucet height: 45 to 48 inches
* Height of showerhead: 72 to 78 inches
* Spout height: 24 to 28 inches

1.2
Using a hole saw make holes in the shower stall.

2. Install the valve

2.1
Arrange the valve in such a manner that the “UP” indication is facing upward.

2.2
Directly connect supply pipes for cold and hot water to either side of the valve. You may directly weld onto the valve, but the use of ½” FPT × ½”welded adapters is highly recommended. If you decide to weld, see that the valve doesn’t get overheated and gets damaged in the process.

The other option is to use ½” FPT × ½” PEX adapters that require no welding.

2.3
Firmly hold the valve inside the wall. To ensure its perfect hold, screw it down to a horizontal 2 × 4” part. In the absence of any such part install one.

2.4
Join the riser tube and the spout pipe with the help of ½” FPT × ½” welded adapters. In case the valve is for a shower installation only, use a ½” brass cap to block the outlet not to be used.

You may opt to use ½” × ½” PEX adapters.

2.5
Set the shower stall in its place.

3. Set up the decorative plate and the faucet handle

Take out the protecting template connected to the valve. Then slide the decorative plate onto the valve. Match the plate hole(s) with the front holes of the valve and then screw. Now you need to install the handle. Attach the handle adapter to the cartridge with a screw and using a hexagonal Allen key, fit the handle. Make sure that the lever is pointing in the downward direction with faucet closed.

4. Install the showerhead

Showerhead may be fixed or removable (telephone shower) and connected to stems for adjusting to the height of the user. You may choose the model of your choice. You can adjust the water flow from gentle to strong to pulsating by using variable flow showerheads.

4.1
Connect the top outlet to the to the pipe of the showerhead, after covering the filets with Teflon tape and then attach the drop ear elbow to the horizontal 2 × 4” part. Warning: just before making the connections you should glide the flange to the end of the shower pipe on the wall side. That helps avoiding damage to the chrome pipe.

4.2
Enfold the pipe filets of the showerhead with two to three layers of Teflon tape applied in clockwise direction. Screw the showerhead manually without making it too tight. An adjustable wrench is used to finish tightening with just a ¼ turn.

If your set comes with a flexible connector now is the time to install it.

Note: The accompanying snap doesn’t show the wall, enabling you to see the components at the back of the wall.

5. Install the spout

Spouts may be slid or screwed onto a pipe. In any case, ensure that there are no defects in the copper pipe. The cut end of the pipe must be flawless. The rim too must be smooth, and not sharp.

5.1
Sliding spout:
Twist the spout on the copper pipe in such a way that setscrew faces upward. Using a hexagonal Allen key, make the screw fairly tight. Now, turn the spout to its standard position while ensuring that it’s well installed against the wall of the shower stall. Tighten the screw with help of a hexagonal Allen key.

Use ½” PEX × ½” copper elbow for a PEX pipe connection.

5.2
Screwed spout:
Cover the sleeve filets with Teflon tape and screw the spout to the sleeve.

6. Finish the installation

Turn on the cold water and hot water to inspect the connections and check there’s no leakage. Leave the faucet open for one minute at least in “lukewarm” position to release the air trapped in the pipes.

Congratulations you did it! Your shower looks great with a new faucet. Are you aware that having a shower for four minutes consumes 60 to 80 liters of water? On the other hand, a bath consumes 150 to 200 liters. On second thoughts you may like to replace washbasin faucet also to have a uniform look in the bathroom.